sleep and eat in Varanasi

Ganpati’s Guesthouse

I read in my Rough Guide about Ganpati’s Guesthouse. I booked online one week before and was told their main guesthouse was fully booked so we were in the add on building which was just a few narrow streets away. Everyday we passed the same children playing and gave them flowers to which they shredded all over the floor.

We paid 1200 rupees per night for the room split between three of us. The wifi in our room wasn’t very good and the AC absolutely froze me at night time. But the view…. I loved it! I could see the river as well as a beautiful courtyards below. After some persuasion the staff let us book our next place in Agra on their computers in reception. We had to be shooed out though so they could set up their beds on the floor. Check out time was 10am so we left our luggage by the front desks.

To book online:

Ganpati’s Rooftop Restaurant

We spent a lot of time here as the view was incredible. The food was okay as we were still getting used to what to pick. We ordered a lot of garlic naans…


View from our bedroom


Inner courtyard with rooms leading off

Dolphin Rooftop Restaurant

Now this is somewhere you have to go. We were told it was a very pricy restaurant so saved it for our last night. The prices were above average but the food was absolutely delicious! After a hefty walk up the stairs we sat on the balcony giving us a fabulous view of the ceremony below. And then the rain happened. The boats dispersed quickly rowing back to shore. We moved under cover for a while brushing off the occasional drip. This didn’t last long though as the balcony flooded under about 20cm of water. We sat inside for our dinner and played cards for a while till the rain eased.

Only a 5 minute walk from Ganpati’s, it’s easy to spot the restaurant as there is a huge sign for it.

Blue Lassi Shop

Another place you have to visit. I guess it’s one of those backpacker rites of passage as there are passport photos of people from all over the world stuck to the walls. A little Indian boy took us though there are many signs leading the way. A lassi is a yogurt drink originally from India which can be mixed with a variety of spices, fruit or just plain salt. We met a lovely girl called Emma from New Zealand who came with us. We ordered coconut, chocolate and banana lassi’s  served in clay pots which they throw away after.

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Takeaway lassi's are also available

Takeaway lassi’s are also available

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The walls will keep you occupied…