Jodhpur: where to eat
So much for losing weight in India, the food here is exceptional and some of our favourite places to eat were in Jodhpur, from a masala omelette to all you can eat thali.
The Omelette Man
Seriously this was the best omelette I’ve ever, will ever eat. A follower on my Instagram said I had to try this place and was backed up by an English couple we met in Jodhpur who said we must visit. The omelette man is situated outside the entrance to the Sardar Market in the Old City. The two men who work there are very friendly obviously having dealt with tourists for many years. Fran went for plain and I chose a cheese masala omelette. We sat with some Australian travellers and got talking, I love the way you meet people in India! On our second trip to Jodhpur we ate one everyday.
*Tip – pay 10 rupees extra for the nicer pitta bread otherwise you’ll get the sweet Indian shop bread.
The best mango lassi
I was told to come here by a fellow traveller for the best mango lassi in town. Just by the clock tower on the same side as the omelette man entrance is the lassi and fruit shake stall. I paid 30 rupees for a cup of ice cold mango lassi which was by far the best lassi I’d ever tasted. You can sit on the plastic chairs to wait and talk to Indian customers.
Pal Haveli’s rooftop restaurant was a recommendation from my Rough Guide. It had great views of the fort and in the distance the Umaid Bhawan Palace. Staff were very cheery, our turban clad waiter didn’t want to leave us alone. We came here for lunch as well as thinking we’d get a nice tan from the rooftop. Food wasn’t cheap but it tasted good. We explored the hotel on our way down and found an amazing old fashioned lounge clearly not updated since the 1920’s. It had an art deco bar with saddle stalls, draped animal furs and taxidermy. 0291 329 3328
On the Rocks
We came here for Lydia’s farewell dinner after it was recommended to us by many people as well as my Rough Guide. It’s beautifully designed garden restaurant reflected the well to do clientele. All waiters were dress in military attire due to the proximity of the palace. Tables were lit from below and almost all were full, clearly this was the place to eat. The food was delicious, we ate spicy potatoes, pakora, chicken tandoori and mutton curry. The restaurant had a fun atmosphere at night, it was the perfect place to dress up and fine dine. 0291 230 2701
Mourning Lydia’s departure I looked through my Rough Guide and found a star next to the restaurant Midtown. Close to the station we got a tuktuk to take us (the driver also wanted to come inside…) I chose a Rajasthani thali and Fran went for pasta. We sat at the back of the restaurant in a lit up area as the rest of the room was quite dark. The manager served us asking us the usual where are you from etc. My thali was delicious and even Fran who seemed to have had enough of curries tasted and enjoyed mine. By the way, I never got bored of eating curry. As we left the staff wanted a picture with us. I really wish I’d taken a photograph too! 0291 263 7001
Knowing my love for thali my Indian friends said I should visit Gypsy, an all you can eat veg thali restaurant. Downstairs looks like a snack bar but we were pointed up the stairs to the restaurant. Dinner started at 7pm and though we were early we were led to a window seat by the well dressed manager known by his name badge as ‘Captian’. He stayed close by throughout dinner making sure our plates were fully loaded. If one pot was empty he’d click his fingers and a second late a waiter came over holding a steaming hot bowl. We tried our first stuffed chillies here which weren’t so bad. It was about 200 rupees and included the Indian sponge dessert. The restaurant was full by the time we left, clearly showing how popular it was. 0291 510 3882
Despite feeling full from Gyspy we paid a visit over the road to 15AD, the most amazing cake shop in all of India. Now being so far away from home we missed chocolate and though India does sell Cadbury’s it’s just not the same. So discovering 15AD was a dream come true. In the freezing air conditioned shop, fine cakes were displayed behind glass cabinets in all different flavours. We chose a slice each and shared them back at our guesthouse savouring each mouthful. On our second visit we decided to eat our cake on the street, bad idea as we were followed by begging children. It kind of took the nice taste away. We managed to clear them off and on the way back bought them all biscuits.
On our first night in Jodhpur Lydia took us in search of meat after spending three days in the vegetarian city Pushkar. At about 9pm we discovered a stall close to the city gates selling chicken and mutton rice. The stall holder seemed thrilled to have us and fetched us water from a nearby shop. I didn’t see any Indian women there but that seems to be the case at night.
Okay now this is one of my favourite, most memorable meals in all of India. A simple looking dish, rice with vegetables and red onion on top, it cost just 40 rupees. To get there you walk straight down from Yogi’s Guesthouse, over the little square and it’s about midway on the left hand side. It’s all cooked from fresh in a large pan facing out to the street. We sat on little stalls inside and spoke to the older owner who asked us to sign his guestbook. The chef asked us how spicy so we said, ‘Little spice’. In just ten minutes we were handed a large plate full of this amazing smelling food. It honestly was one of the best meals we’d ever eaten. After about 5 minutes though I could feel my mouth burning up. How spicy was it?! I drank mango juice to help but my mouth was seriously burning, this didn’t stop me from finishing it though. I think I had a slight fever by the time we left. We went back taking our Lebanese friends with us and this time said, ‘No spice!’ The chef just laughed after seeing my reaction before. For some reason it tasted ever spicier but I still returned an empty plate.